Contents
Provence was the first half of my drive through the South of France: Aix-en-Provence, the Luberon villages, the lavender around Sault, the Alpilles and the Roman stones of Avignon and the Pont du Gard. I picked up my car in Marseille. I’ve written the loop from Aix, but Marseille works just as well as a start or end point. This is the 7-day self-drive route I would hand a friend, with honest drive times, where to base yourself, when the lavender really blooms, and the small moments that made the trip for me.
This post contains affiliate links and widgets (GetYourGuide). If you book through them I may earn a small commission, at no extra cost to you. It helps keep this blog running.

Provence road trip at a glance
- Route: (Marseille →) Aix-en-Provence → Gordes, Roussillon and Lourmarin → the Sault lavender plateau → L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt → Les Baux, Saint-Rémy and Arles → Avignon and the Pont du Gard → back to Marseille, with Cassis as an optional coastal extra
- Driving: mostly 15 minutes to 1½ hours between stops, on toll motorways and slow, winding country roads
- Bases: two or three, not seven (see where to base yourself)
- Best time: late June to mid-July for lavender; May, early June and September for fewer crowds
- Car hire: I collected mine in Marseille; Marseille airport, Aix TGV station or Avignon TGV station all work
- Not driving? Base yourself in Avignon or Aix and use trains and day tours (see the no-car version)
Planning more of the South? Pair this with my guide to where to stay in Provence, the 7-day Côte d’Azur self-drive itinerary, my Marseille city guide and the Nice city guide.
Jump to: Itinerary at a glance · Route map · Lavender season · Provence regions · Planning and bases · Day 1 · Day 2 · Day 3 · Day 4 · Day 5 · Day 6 · Day 7 · Driving tips · Without a car · Rosé and wine · Places I missed · FAQ
There are few places in the world that stir the senses quite like Provence. Picture this: violet lavender rippling under the summer sun, cicadas humming with the breeze, and hilltop towns glowing in golden light like an impressionist painting come to life. It’s no wonder Van Gogh and Cézanne found their muses here. But Provence is more than postcard beauty. It’s slow travel at its best, where every curve in the road leads to another small revelation: a village market, a centuries-old abbey framed in purple, or a glass of chilled rosé under the olive trees.
This guide is for anyone with a car key in hand, but it also works if you’d rather mix trains and day tours. Each day ends with notes from the road: drive times, parking, timing and something good to eat. So if you’ve ever dreamt of drifting through lavender-scented air and timeless stone villages, let this be your compass. Let’s begin the journey.
Your 7-Day Provence Itinerary at a Glance
Drive times are typical times without traffic or stops. Summer weekends, market mornings and village car parks can easily add 30 minutes, so treat them as a minimum.
| Day | Base for the night | Route and typical drive times | Highlights |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Aix-en-Provence (or Marseille) | Start in Marseille, where I picked up my car: Marseille → Aix about 30–40 min. Or pick up in Aix | Cours Mirabeau, the old town, Cézanne, calissons |
| 2 | Luberon (Gordes area) or L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue | Aix → Gordes about 1 hr; Gordes → Roussillon about 15–20 min; Roussillon → Lourmarin about 30 min; Sénanque about 10 min from Gordes | Gordes viewpoint, Roussillon’s ochre trail, Lourmarin, Sénanque Abbey |
| 3 | Luberon | To Sault about 1–1¼ hrs from Lourmarin or Gordes | Lavender route, a distillery, a picnic in the fields (I did this day as a guided tour) |
| 4 | Luberon | Sault → L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue about 1 hr; L’Isle → Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt about 30–35 min | Antiques and canals, a quiet hilltop village, sunset apéro |
| 5 | Saint-Rémy-de-Provence or Avignon | Luberon → Les Baux about 1 hr; Les Baux → Saint-Rémy about 15 min; Saint-Rémy → Arles about 30 min | Les Baux, Carrières de Lumières, Van Gogh in Saint-Rémy, Roman Arles |
| 6 | Saint-Rémy or Avignon | Saint-Rémy → Avignon about 25–30 min; Avignon → Pont du Gard about 30 min | Palais des Papes and the Pont d’Avignon, then the Pont du Gard (or Uzès, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, more Avignon or the Alpilles) |
| 7 | Marseille (return the car), or Cassis as an optional extra night | Avignon or Pont du Gard → Marseille about 1¼–1½ hrs; optional Marseille → Cassis about 30–40 min | Vieux-Port, Le Panier and Notre-Dame de la Garde; optionally Cassis and a Calanques boat trip |
Provence Road Trip Route Map
Tap the map to explore each stop on my 7-day Provence loop.
For turn-by-turn directions, open the route in Google Maps. The link covers the main stops; add Sénanque and Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt on the day.
Why Visit Provence in Lavender Season

Lavender and Provence are more than a visual pairing. They are a sensory immersion, woven into the rhythm of Southern France. When summer arrives, the plateaus turn into violet waves, the air fills with that calming scent, and you’re invited to slow down and breathe it all in. Visiting in lavender season isn’t just about the fields; it’s about stepping into the heart of Provençal culture.
When Does Lavender Bloom in Provence?
Lavender usually blooms from mid-to-late June to late July, but timing shifts every year with the weather and, above all, with altitude. Lower fields flower and are harvested first; higher plateaus follow a couple of weeks later. Use this as a guide, not a guarantee:
| Area | Altitude | Typical bloom | Harvest usually starts | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Valensole Plateau | About 500–600 m | Mid-June to mid-July | From mid-July | Endless rows and sunrise photos; often combined with the Verdon |
| Luberon (Gordes, Sénanque, Bonnieux) | About 200–600 m | Late June to mid-July | Mid-to-late July | Lavender with villages and the abbey in the frame |
| Sault and the Mont Ventoux plateau | About 750–1,000 m | Early July to late July, sometimes into early August | Late July to August | Later trips, distilleries and quieter roads |
Visiting Valensole after mid-July risks finding fields already cut, while Sault gives you more flexibility. The Luberon’s smaller, village-side fields feel more intimate, but bloom varies, so check recent updates. I saw the Sault plateau on a guided tour on this trip and missed Valensole (more on that in places I missed). If you’re combining Provence with the Riviera, my Côte d’Azur Day 6 route through the Verdon passes the Valensole fields.
How to Check the Bloom Before You Go

- Check the local tourist offices for the Luberon, Sault (Ventoux Provence) and Valensole (Durance Luberon Verdon) the week before. Their websites and social accounts often post bloom updates.
- Watch recent photos on Instagram location tags and traveller forums; they show the fields as they look this week, not last year.
- Call or message a distillery or farm, especially around Sault or Valensole. Many are family-run and happy to tell you how the harvest is going.
- Plan your dates ahead: follow local bloom calendars, or check out 2026 calendars to plan your travels around seasonal highlights like the lavender bloom.
Combine this with your driving route and you can time your stops for when the colours are richest, not when the farmers are in full harvest swing.
Where Lavender Meets Limestone: The Four Areas of This Route
From lavender fields to terraced vineyards, ochre cliffs, medieval villages and the coast, Provence is a masterpiece of contrasts, each area with its own tempo. Trains connect hubs like Avignon, Arles, Aix and Marseille, but the real gems, such as Sault’s fields, Roussillon’s ochres and Lourmarin’s market, are best reached by car. Grouping your route by area lets you avoid doubling back. Here are the four areas this itinerary covers.
| Area | Key places | Best for | Itinerary days |
|---|---|---|---|
| Luberon (central Provence) | Gordes, Roussillon, Lourmarin, Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt, Sénanque Abbey, Sault | Hilltop villages, lavender, markets | 2, 3, 4 |
| Alpilles (western Provence) | Les Baux-de-Provence, Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Arles | Van Gogh, Roman ruins, olive oil | 5 |
| Vaucluse and the Gard | Avignon, L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, Pont du Gard | Papal history, antiques, swimming | 4, 6 |
| Cities and coast | Aix-en-Provence, Marseille, Cassis | City life, sea, the Calanques | 1, 7 |
Luberon Region (Central Provence)

The Luberon is what most people imagine when they think of Provence: stone villages clinging to cliffs, vineyards and colour-drenched towns between mountains and fields. Gordes is the poster child, dramatically perched and built of honey-coloured stone. A short drive away, Roussillon glows with red ochre cliffs, one of the few places in Provence where you feel you’ve stepped onto Mars. Lourmarin, elegant and artistic, has a Renaissance château and a much-loved market. For lavender, Sault is a quieter alternative to Valensole, with distilleries you can visit. And don’t miss the Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, where monks tend lavender in monastic silence. Quieter gems like Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt are perfect for slower moments.

Alpilles Region (Western Provence)

Between limestone ridges and olive groves, the Alpilles are compact but packed with character.
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence is a charming base: Van Gogh painted some of his most famous works here, and the town has a Wednesday market, Roman ruins and boutiques full of local crafts.
A short drive away, Les Baux-de-Provence sits high on a rocky outcrop, with the immersive art of the Carrières de Lumières in a former quarry below.
Arles, with its Roman amphitheatre and train station, is easy to reach without a car and is the gateway to the Camargue.
Vaucluse and the Gard

Avignon is the gateway to many Provençal journeys, with its TGV station, regional trains and day tours. It deserves time of its own for the Palais des Papes, the famous half-bridge and the arts scene.
From Avignon it’s a short drive to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, a canal town famed for antiques and its Sunday market, with pastel shutters and riverside cafés. West of Avignon, just over the border in the Gard (technically Occitanie, not Provence), the Pont du Gard is one of the most dramatic Roman monuments in Europe and a summer swimming spot.
Provence Cities and Coast
Aix-en-Provence brings sophistication: plane-tree boulevards, Cézanne’s legacy, fountains and rosé bars, and easy roads inland or to the coast. Marseille, the beating heart of the South, is vibrant and raw, with a food scene shaped by Mediterranean, North African and Provençal influences.
I’ve since written a full Marseille city guide. About 30–40 minutes east, Cassis is a calmer harbour town with boat trips into the Calanques National Park. For Roman history fans, Nîmes, near the Pont du Gard, has an amphitheatre and the Maison Carrée temple.
Planning Your Provence Road Trip
A Provence road trip is as much about pacing as plotting. The winding roads, cliffside villages and open fields invite you to travel slowly, with intention. The route is designed to minimise backtracking while giving you variety: hilltop villages, Roman ruins, lavender plateaus and the coast. Some places, like Marseille and Avignon, deserve an extra night if you can spare it.
Where to Base Yourself (Two or Three Bases, Not Seven)
Changing hotels every night eats into the slow days that make Provence special. My guide to where to stay in Provence compares every base in detail. For a week with a car, its split-stay plan suggests four nights in the Luberon or the Alpilles, then three nights in Aix, Marseille or Cassis. Here’s how that fits this loop, plus a three-base version if you’d rather not double back:
| Option | Nights | Base | Covers |
|---|---|---|---|
| Two bases | 1–4 | A Luberon village or L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue | Days 1–5 (Aix on the way in; the Alpilles are about an hour away) |
| Two bases | 5–7 | Aix or Marseille, or Cassis | Days 6–7 (Avignon and the Pont du Gard become a longer day trip) |
| Three bases | 1 | Aix or Marseille | Day 1 |
| Three bases | 2–4 | A Luberon village or L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue | Days 2–4 |
| Three bases | 5–6 | Saint-Rémy or Avignon | Days 5–6 |
| Three bases | 7 | Marseille (or Cassis) | Day 7 and returning the car |
Not driving? The same guide covers staying in Provence without a car, and its lavender-season base strategy helps if the bloom is your priority.
Driving on to the Riviera afterwards? My Côte d’Azur itinerary picks up from here.
Best Time for a Provence Road Trip
- Late June to mid-July: peak lavender, long evenings, busy roads and the highest demand for rooms and rental cars. Book early.
- May and early June: green hills, poppies, pleasant heat and fewer crowds, but no lavender yet.
- Late July and August: hot and crowded; most Luberon and Valensole fields are harvested, though Sault may still have colour. The Festival d’Avignon fills the city in July.
- September and October: grape harvest, warm seas and calmer villages.
Day 1: Kick off from Aix-en-Provence
Art, Avenues, and the Rhythm of Provence Begins

I picked up my car in Marseille, but I’ve written the loop from Aix-en-Provence, about 30–40 minutes north, because it’s the perfect place to begin. If you’re arriving by TGV, you can start right here instead. Known for its artistic soul, leafy boulevards and effortlessly elegant vibe, Aix is more than a pretty face. It’s where you start to feel the Provençal rhythm.
This is the day to settle in slowly. Once you have your car, start with a gentle stroll along the Cours Mirabeau. This plane-tree-lined avenue is the heart of the city, lined with old mansions, cafés and fountains. Grab a terrace table, sip a chilled glass of local rosé, and indulge in the simple luxury of doing nothing at all.

Explore the old town, get lost in backstreets of artisan shops and boutiques, or follow in the footsteps of Paul Cézanne, who was born here and painted Montagne Sainte-Victoire again and again from just outside the city. His studio, the Atelier de Cézanne, is a short walk north of the centre. Aix’s charm lies not in rushing but in absorbing. Provence begins not with a bang, but with a breath.
Notes from the road
- Car hire: I collected my car in Marseille. The main rental desks are at Marseille Provence Airport, Marseille Saint-Charles station and Aix-en-Provence TGV station (outside town). Picking up and returning in the same place avoids one-way fees. Book early for summer, especially for an automatic.
- Parking: don’t try to drive into the old town. Use an underground car park on the edge of the centre, such as Rotonde or Méjanes, or a park-and-ride (parking relais) with a shuttle into town.
- Best time: late afternoon into evening for golden-hour café life.
- Local bite: calissons d’Aix, the city’s almond-paste and candied-melon sweets.
Day 2: Luberon Villages
Gordes, Roussillon & Lourmarin – Hilltop Views, Earthy Hues, Café Culture
Day 2 takes you into the heart of the Luberon, where villages perch on cliffs, ochre trails glow in the sun and Renaissance châteaux sit among olive groves and vineyards. This trio, Gordes, Roussillon and Lourmarin, captures classic Provence in a single day.
Gordes: Gordes is one of France’s officially listed “most beautiful villages”, dramatically perched on the edge of the Vaucluse plateau, with pale stone houses tumbling down towards the valley.
From the viewpoint on the D15 road just below the village (on the approach from Cavaillon and Les Imberts), you get the classic postcard shot. In the village, wander the steep cobbled lanes, admire the Renaissance château from the square, and enjoy the panoramic terraces. Come in early morning light or at golden hour, which lingers late into the evening in midsummer, for softer tones and fewer crowds.

Roussillon: a short drive from Gordes, Roussillon is famous for its vivid ochre cliffs and pigments, and the whole village glows in reds, oranges and yellows.
Wander the streets painted in mineral hues, then follow the Sentier des Ocres (ochre trail), a Mars-like landscape shaped by erosion and centuries of quarrying. Wear shoes you don’t mind turning orange.
Lourmarin: Renaissance elegance meets café terraces in Lourmarin, a relaxed yet cultured village among vineyards and olive groves.
Visit the Château de Lourmarin, considered the first Renaissance château in Provence and now run by a cultural foundation, and stroll the lanes of artisan shops. The writer Albert Camus lived here and is buried in the village cemetery. On a Friday, catch the weekly market with local produce, lavender products and good things to eat.
Sunset Stop: Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque

About 10 minutes by car down a winding road from Gordes sits the Cistercian Abbaye Notre-Dame de Sénanque, founded in 1148 and still home to a community of monks, who grow the lavender in front of it.
The bloom here usually peaks from late June to mid-July, and the field is often cut soon after, so don’t count on it in late July. Visits inside the abbey are by guided tour or self-guided with a tablet, depending on the day; summer slots go fast, so book on the official Sénanque website. It’s a place of prayer: dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered), keep your voice down and stay out of the lavender rows. If you’d rather not drive, guided Luberon tours from Avignon often include Gordes and Sénanque. The late light over the lavender is unforgettable if your timing aligns.
Notes from the road
- Driving: Aix to Gordes about 1 hour; Gordes to Roussillon about 15–20 minutes; Roussillon to Lourmarin about 30 minutes; Gordes to Sénanque about 10 minutes. The Sénanque road is narrow with steep bends, so take it slowly.
- Parking: paid car parks on the edge of Gordes, Roussillon and Lourmarin, and a car park at Sénanque. Arrive early in summer.
- Best light: morning for the Gordes viewpoint, midday for Roussillon’s ochres, late afternoon at Sénanque if the lavender is in bloom.
- Local tip: in Lourmarin, look for lavender soaps and local olive oil, and take a long lunch on a shady terrace.

Day 3: Lavender Fields in Sault
Violet Horizons and the Scent of Summer

By Day 3 it’s time to head up into the lavender highlands of Sault, a less famous but wonderfully rewarding place for lavender lovers. Sault sits higher than the Valensole Plateau, so its fields bloom later, which makes it a good bet in July (some fields hang on into early August). The drive is a delight: rolling hills, forests and purple carpets slowly unfolding. Take your time and follow the local lavender route, a loop between Sault, Ferrassières and Aurel past photogenic fields, farms and distilleries.
Start early to beat the heat and the tour buses. Several lavender farms welcome visitors for photos, walks and workshops. I didn’t drive this day: I did Sault as a guided day tour, and drove the rest of the trip myself. My highlight was the Aroma’Plantes distillery, just outside Sault. On my guided lavender tour we watched freshly cut lavender being distilled into oil, the warm, earthy scent rising from the vats and filling the air. The on-site shop sells soaps, oils and local treats, which make good souvenirs.

For lunch, I packed a picnic from Sault’s shops and market (try goat’s cheese, tapenade and lavender honey) and found a peaceful spot near the blooms. It’s still one of my favourite memories of Provence. Many fields here are easy to reach from the roadside, but they are farmers’ livelihoods: stay at the edges, don’t walk between the rows, and never pick the flowers.
Spend the afternoon in slow motion: rest under a tree, photograph bees at work, or watch the wind ripple across the rows. Sault itself has a few cafés and a terrace with wide views over the fields, perfect for winding down. If you have energy left, the road up Mont Ventoux starts nearby.
Tip: if you’d rather not drive the narrow, winding lavender roads, a guided lavender day tour is a really good option. Many leave from Avignon or Aix and combine the fields, a distillery and a village or two, and the guide knows where the bloom is best that week.
Notes from the road
- Driving (if you go on your own): Lourmarin or Gordes to Sault about 1–1¼ hours, via Apt and the D943, or via Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt and the D1. The roads are narrow and winding.
- Parking: parking at Aroma’Plantes and in Sault village; use proper pull-offs along the lavender roads, never the field edges or farm tracks.
- Best time: early to mid-July, in the morning or late afternoon for light.
- Food tip: Sault is known for its nougat, made with local lavender honey. The Wednesday market is the town’s main market day.

Lavender Travel: Practical Tips
Maximise the purple, minimise the stress

- Photography: come at early morning or golden hour for soft light. Weekdays are quieter. Never step between the rows: it damages the plants and upsets the farmers.
- Drones: many fields and the area around Sénanque are off-limits for drones, and French drone rules are strict. Check before you fly.
- What to expect: heat, bees (gentle but busy) and lavender-themed markets selling oils, soaps, honey and even lavender ice cream. A distillery visit explains how the oil is made.
- Private land: respect signs and fences. Some farms ask for a small fee or a purchase in their shop in exchange for photos.
- Missed the bloom? Don’t worry. Dried lavender and that unmistakable scent linger in every Provençal village year-round.
What to pack
- Sun protection: hat, sunscreen and sunglasses
- A water bottle (it gets hot!)
- Comfortable walking shoes
- A light scarf, great for sun and for adding flair to photos
- A small picnic blanket or towel

Day 4: Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt + L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
From Antique Markets to Hilltop Tranquility
Day 4 slows the pace, beginning with treasures from the past and ending in hilltop serenity, a lovely balance of lively charm and quiet reflection.

Start your morning in L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, sometimes called the “Venice of the Comtat” for the arms of the River Sorgue that wind through town, turning moss-covered water wheels past riverside cafés. Its real fame comes from antiques: the town has one of France’s biggest concentrations of antique dealers outside Paris, and on Sundays the brocante and flea-market stalls join the food market along the water. You’ll find everything from vintage ceramics and linen to old books and ornate mirrors. Even if you’re not buying, browsing the stalls and antique villages is a delight.
Pro tip: arrive early on market days for easier parking and fewer crowds. Grab a coffee and pastry by the river before wandering the backstreets and bridges. If it’s not Sunday, the boutiques and canal-side cafés still charm, and there’s a smaller market on Thursdays.

In the afternoon, head to Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt, an underrated village above the Luberon valley. It’s far quieter than Gordes or Roussillon, yet full of character and wide views. Park near the village centre and walk up to the castle ruins, chapel and the old windmill on the ridge; the climb is short and rewards you with views over vineyards and rooftops. The village itself is wonderfully sleepy: stone façades, pastel shutters and a scattering of galleries and wine shops.
As the sun sets, enjoy an apéro on a peaceful terrace with a chilled local rosé and a view of the hills. This is Provençal stillness at its best: no agenda, no rush, just a hilltop breeze and the scent of thyme.
Notes from the road
- Driving: Sault to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue about 1 hour; L’Isle to Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt about 30–35 minutes.
- Parking: car parks in L’Isle fill early on Sundays; Saint-Saturnin has parking on the edge of the village.
- Market days: L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue’s big market and antiques are on Sunday mornings, with a smaller market on Thursdays.
- Food tip: try a tomato tart or Provençal tapenade from a market stall for an easy midday snack.
- Detour: Fontaine-de-Vaucluse, the source of the Sorgue, is about 15 minutes from L’Isle.

Day 5: Les Baux, Saint-Rémy & Arles
Art, Stone, and the Soul of Provence

Day 5 is a sensory and historical journey through the Alpilles, one of Provence’s most dramatic landscapes. From immersive art in a quarry to walking in Van Gogh’s footsteps, it’s a day packed with beauty, reflection and ancient echoes.
Begin your morning in Les Baux-de-Provence, a medieval village and castle ruin set dramatically on a rocky spur. Wander its cobbled lanes, explore the castle, and take in the sweeping views over olive groves and limestone ridges.
Just below the village is the Carrières de Lumières, an immersive show inside a vast former limestone quarry, where works by great artists are projected across the walls, floor and pillars and set to music.
The theme changes regularly, so check what’s showing and book tickets in advance, especially in summer. (The mineral bauxite is named after Les Baux, where it was first identified, but this quarry produced white limestone.)

Next, head to Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, a town that’s both lively and quietly poetic. In May 1889, Vincent van Gogh admitted himself to the Saint-Paul de Mausole asylum, a former monastery just outside town. During his year there he painted around 150 works, including The Starry Night, Irises and Wheatfield with Cypresses.
You can follow a Van Gogh trail of panels showing his paintings near the places that inspired them, and visit Saint-Paul itself: the gardens, the cloister and a recreation of Vincent’s room offer a glimpse into his fragile but brilliant world. The quiet chapel there is one of the moments of this trip I remember most. Right next door are the Roman ruins of Glanum.
If time allows, continue to Arles, about 30 minutes away. Once a major Roman city, it has an amphitheatre that still hosts events, an ancient theatre and the Alyscamps necropolis, all part of a UNESCO World Heritage listing. Van Gogh painted around 300 works in Arles before moving to Saint-Rémy, so it’s another stop on his Provençal path.

Notes from the road
- Driving: from the Luberon to Les Baux about 1 hour; Les Baux to Saint-Rémy about 15 minutes; Saint-Rémy to Arles about 30 minutes (Les Baux to Arles is about 25 minutes).
- Parking: paid car parks below Les Baux (the village is pedestrian); public car parks around Saint-Rémy’s ring road and near Saint-Paul de Mausole.
- Ticket tip: book Carrières de Lumières online to skip queues.
- Food tip: the Vallée des Baux is olive oil country, so stop at a mill for a tasting. Saint-Rémy’s market is on Wednesday mornings.
Day 6: Avignon & Pont du Gard
Popes, Bridges, and a Dip into Antiquity
Avignon and the Pont du Gard sit close together, about 30 minutes apart, so I’ve paired them in one day. There’s so much to explore in this corner of Provence that I had to choose, and I really wanted to see the Pont du Gard. If it isn’t for you, there are good alternatives below.
After days in the countryside, Day 6 brings you back to the historic core of Provence: Avignon, seat of the popes in the 14th century. Start with the Palais des Papes, the largest Gothic palace in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Walk through the vast ceremonial halls, see the frescoes in the papal apartments, and climb to the terraces for views over the Rhône.
Nearby is the Pont Saint-Bénézet, better known as the Pont d’Avignon of the nursery song. Only four of its original arches survive, ending mid-river, and the visit and exhibits tell the story of the bridge well. For lunch supplies, the covered market Les Halles is a short walk away.

In the early afternoon, drive about 30 minutes west to the Pont du Gard. This Roman aqueduct bridge, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985, was built in the 1st century AD to carry water about 50 km to Nîmes. At almost 49 metres, it’s the tallest Roman aqueduct bridge in the world. You can walk across beside the lowest tier, see the museum, follow trails through the garrigue, or swim and kayak in the Gardon below, a favourite summer pastime. Bring a swimsuit and settle in for a picnic and a dip. Don’t jump from the bridge or rocks, and swim only in the areas away from the arches. If you love the idea of paddling under the arches, I’ve gathered more ideas in my guide to outdoor activities in the South of France.
Whether you’re here for history, photography or a riverside siesta, the Pont du Gard is where the grand scale of the Roman Empire meets the slow pace of the South.
Not Into the Pont du Gard? Alternatives for the Afternoon
- More time in Avignon: add the Petit Palais museum, the Rocher des Doms gardens above the river, and a slow evening inside the walls.
- Uzès: a handsome old town about 40 minutes west of Avignon, famous for its arcaded Place aux Herbes and Saturday market. It also pairs well with the Pont du Gard if you want both.
- Châteauneuf-du-Pape: about 25 minutes north of Avignon, with the ruined papal castle above the vines and plenty of tasting cellars (bring a non-drinking driver).
- Back to the Alpilles: spend longer in Saint-Rémy, Glanum or the olive mills if Day 5 felt rushed.
Notes from the road
- Driving: Saint-Rémy to Avignon about 25–30 minutes; Avignon to the Pont du Gard about 30 minutes.
- Parking in Avignon: the old town’s lanes are narrow. Use the Palais des Papes underground car park, or a car park outside the walls such as the free Île Piot car park with its shuttle.
- Pont du Gard: parking is included in the site admission, and there are car parks on both banks. Check the official site for the current ticket options.
- What to bring: water shoes, as the riverbed is rocky.
- Food tip: pick up a picnic at Les Halles in Avignon before you leave.

Day 7: Marseille or Cassis
Choose Your Ending: Coastal Energy or Seaside Calm
My loop ends back in Marseille, where I returned the car, and France’s most eclectic port city makes a great finale. If you have time and want the sea, Cassis, a pastel harbour town hugged by limestone cliffs, is an easy extra. Stay flexible and pick what suits you.

Marseille: begin at the Vieux-Port, where fishing boats, the morning fish market and waterfront cafés buzz with life. Visit the striking MuCEM, wander the historic Le Panier district, and take in the panorama from Notre-Dame de la Garde. Marseille is gritty, dynamic and deeply multicultural, a full-circle contrast to the sleepy villages of the Luberon. It’s also a transport hub, ideal if you’re continuing by train, ferry or plane. My Marseille city guide has the full plan.
Cassis: as an optional alternative or extension (I didn’t make it there myself), Cassis is a pretty fishing port about 30–40 minutes’ drive from Marseille. Stroll the harbour, enjoy a seafood lunch, and take a boat trip into the Calanques, the steep, fjord-like limestone inlets that line the coast. Swimming, hiking or simply gazing at the turquoise water: it’s the essence of a Provençal summer. Hiking access changes in summer, so read my Calanques notes before you go.
Whichever ending you choose, Day 7 is about reflection and relaxation. Tell me in the comments: did you stay in Marseille or head for the coast? And if you carried on to the Côte d’Azur, I’d love to hear where the road took you next.
Notes from the road
- Driving: Avignon or the Pont du Gard to Marseille about 1¼–1½ hours on toll motorways; Marseille to Cassis about 30–40 minutes.
- Marseille low-emission zone: central Marseille has a ZFE that bans older, more polluting vehicles. Recent rental cars normally comply, but if you bring your own car, check the rules (see driving tips).
- Calanques rules: from June to September, land access can close at short notice for fire risk, and Sugiton needs a free reservation in peak summer. Boat trips usually still run. Check the Calanques National Park website or the Mes Calanques app the evening before.
- Cassis parking: the town centre fills fast in summer; use the car parks on the edge of town with a shuttle.
- Food tip: in Cassis, try the local white wine with grilled fish; in Marseille, bouillabaisse.
Driving Tips & Scenic Experience
Exploring Provence by car brings freedom, but it pays to know a few things before turning the key.
Car Rental Tips
-

On the road into Marseille: toll motorways between cities, winding country roads in between. Book early, especially for an automatic, which is less common and costlier in France.
- Go small: a compact car or small SUV is ideal for narrow village lanes and tight car parks, but make sure it has enough power for the hills.
- Pick up outside city centres: I picked up and returned my car in Marseille, which suits this loop. Marseille Provence Airport, Aix TGV station and Avignon TGV station are all easier than driving out of an old town. A one-way drop-off (for example Aix to Nice) may cost extra.
- Document the car: film a walk-around video at pickup, check the excess, and consider full cover.
- Licence: check whether your licence needs an International Driving Permit to drive in France.
Roads, Tolls and Fuel
- Roads: expect a mix of fast toll motorways (A7, A8, A9, A51, A54) and narrow, winding D-roads through hills and villages. Speed cameras are common.
- Roundabouts: give way to traffic already on the roundabout, and signal when you exit. On some minor roads and village junctions, traffic from the right has priority.
- Tolls: take a ticket when you join and pay by card at the exit. Avoid lanes marked only with an orange “t”, which are for electronic tags. Keep a card that works without a PIN as a backup.
- Fuel: fill up before remote stretches like Sault. Rural stations may close at lunch and in the evening, and unstaffed pumps can reject some foreign cards. Supermarket stations are usually cheaper than motorway ones. Sans plomb (SP95, SP98) is unleaded petrol and gazole is diesel; check what your car needs.
Low-Emission Zones (ZFE and Crit’Air)
France’s low-emission zones use the Crit’Air windscreen sticker. On this route, the one that matters is central Marseille, where the ZFE bans the most polluting vehicles (Crit’Air 4, 5 and unclassified) at all times. At the time of writing, Aix and Avignon don’t restrict cars. If, like me, you pick up your car in Marseille, rental cars are normally recent enough to comply and should already have a sticker, but if you drive your own car into France, order a sticker well ahead, only from the official certificat-air.gouv.fr site. National ZFE rules have been debated in parliament, so check before you travel.
Parking and Where to Base Yourself
In Aix-en-Provence, driving downtown is slow and frustrating: park in a car park on the edge of the centre or use a park-and-ride, then walk. Avignon has narrow streets too, so use the Palais des Papes car park or one outside the walls. Many travellers explore the villages from a base in the Luberon or L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, which means shorter drives and fewer parking headaches. See where to stay in Provence for the pros and cons of each base.
Travellers say
- “Rent the smallest car you can… Many roads are narrow, even in the old towns.”
- “Don’t leave valuables visible in your car. Rental cars are obvious targets.”
Provence Without a Car
Not driving? You can still see a lot. Base yourself in Avignon or Aix, use regional TER trains and buses between the cities, and join day tours for the villages and lavender.
| Place | Without a car | Tip |
|---|---|---|
| Avignon, Arles, Marseille | Easy by train | Avignon and Arles are on the same regional line; Marseille is a quick TGV or TER ride |
| Aix-en-Provence | Easy by train or coach | Aix TGV station is outside town; shuttle buses link it to the centre |
| L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue | Train from Avignon | A good village to reach without a car |
| Cassis | Train from Marseille | Cassis station is outside town; take a local bus or taxi down to the harbour |
| Gordes, Roussillon, Sénanque, Sault, Les Baux | Hard without a car | Best on a day tour from Avignon or Aix |
| Pont du Gard | Bus from Avignon or Nîmes | Check the regional bus timetable; tours are simpler |
If you’re also heading east, my Côte d’Azur no-car plan uses the same approach from Nice.
Wine Travel in Provence: Rosé Dreams and Sun-Kissed Vines

When it comes to French wine, Bordeaux and Burgundy often steal the spotlight, but Provence holds its own, especially for lovers of crisp, pale rosé. Provence is often called France’s oldest wine region, as the Greeks planted vines around Marseille some 2,600 years ago, and it is the world’s best-known rosé region: close to 90% of its AOC wine is rosé. Sun, sea breezes and stony soils make wines that are light, fresh and made for warm Mediterranean evenings.
- Côtes de Provence: the largest appellation, spread across the Var and parts of the Bouches-du-Rhône, with many estates offering tastings. Near Aix, the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence and the vineyards around Montagne Sainte-Victoire are easy detours.
- Cassis and Bandol: two small coastal appellations of their own. Cassis is known for its white wine, Bandol for its powerful reds and its rosé.
- Luberon and Ventoux: quieter, scenic inland areas with small estates making reds and whites as well as rosé, right on this route.
- Les Baux-de-Provence: known for its high share of organic and biodynamic estates.
For an immersive experience, stay on a wine estate, join a half-day tasting tour from Aix or Avignon, or simply pull over for a dégustation on your road trip. Unlike the grand châteaux of Bordeaux, Provençal vineyards are often relaxed and family-run. And if you’re driving, let your passenger do the tasting: France’s drink-drive limit is lower than in many countries.
Places I Missed But You Shouldn’t
Time Slips Away, But These Spots Deserve a Place on Your Map

Provence is vast, and even with a well-paced plan you’ll soon realise you can’t see everything in one trip. That’s the beauty of it. Here are a few places I didn’t reach this time, but you absolutely should if time allows:
Valensole Plateau: Provence’s lavender epicentre and its most photographed fields, with rows of violet stretching to the horizon around Valensole and Puimoisson. It’s more exposed (and busier) than Sault, but stunning at sunrise. It blooms earlier, so go in late June or early July. It fits neatly into a Verdon Gorge day.
Cassis and the Calanques: between turquoise water and white limestone cliffs, Cassis is smaller and calmer than Marseille, and the real highlight is the Calanques National Park, reached by boat or on foot. Read up on the summer access rules in my Marseille guide, and for kayaking and hiking ideas see my South of France outdoor activities guide.
Oppède-le-Vieux, Ménerbes and Bonnieux: three quieter Luberon villages full of rustic charm. Ménerbes was made famous by Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence, Bonnieux has panoramic views and a Romanesque old church at the top of the village, and Oppède-le-Vieux is hauntingly beautiful with its half-ruined lanes. These are places for meandering, not racing through.
The Camargue: south of Arles, the Rhône delta is a world of wetlands, pink flamingos, white horses and black bulls, with the seaside town of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer at its edge. It’s an easy extra day from Arles.
The Verdon Gorge: Europe’s answer to the Grand Canyon, with turquoise water and Lac de Sainte-Croix. I saw it on my Côte d’Azur road trip; from Aix it’s about 1½ hours to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, so it’s best with a night nearby.
Provence Road Trip FAQ
How many days do you need for a Provence road trip?
Seven days is enough for the highlights (Aix, the Luberon villages, the lavender, the Alpilles, Avignon and the Pont du Gard, and Marseille or Cassis) at a relaxed pace. With 10 days you can add the Verdon Gorge, Valensole or the Camargue.
When is lavender season in Provence?
Lavender usually blooms from mid-to-late June to late July. The Valensole Plateau blooms and is harvested first, the Luberon and Sénanque peak from late June to mid-July, and the higher Sault plateau blooms into late July. Dates vary each year, so check local bloom updates before you go.
Where should I base myself for a week in Provence?
Use two or three bases. A simple two-base week is four nights in the Luberon (or the Alpilles) and three nights in Aix, Marseille or Cassis. For this loop, a three-base version also works: Aix or Marseille, then the Luberon or L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, then Saint-Rémy or Avignon, ending back in Marseille.
Is it easy to drive in Provence?
Yes. Motorways are fast but tolled, and country roads are narrow and winding but quiet outside peak season. The hard parts are parking in old towns and hill villages, so use car parks on the edge and walk in.
Do I need a Crit’Air sticker to drive in Provence?
Only for low-emission zones. On this route, central Marseille’s zone bans the oldest, most polluting vehicles. Rental cars normally comply. If you drive your own car, order a sticker from the official certificat-air.gouv.fr site and check the latest rules before you travel.
Can you visit Provence without a car?
Yes, partly. Avignon, Arles, Aix, Marseille, Cassis and L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue are reachable by train, and day tours from Avignon or Aix cover Gordes, Roussillon, Sénanque and the lavender fields. A car gives you far more freedom in the villages.
Can you swim at the Pont du Gard?
Yes. In summer the banks of the Gardon river below the Pont du Gard are a popular swimming and kayaking spot. Don’t jump from the bridge or rocks, and don’t swim directly under the arches.
Do you need to book Sénanque Abbey?
It’s wise in summer. Visits inside the abbey are guided or self-guided with a tablet, and peak-season slots sell out. You can see the lavender field in front from the outside, but stay out of the rows and dress modestly, as it is a working monastery.
The Soul of Provence Lives Between the Roads
Provence doesn’t just seduce with its beauty. It teaches you to slow down and be present. It’s in the breeze through the lavender, the way sunlight clings to the ochre walls of Roussillon, the hush of a hilltop at golden hour when no one else is watching. This road trip wasn’t about checking off boxes. It was about finding stillness between places, and letting that stillness change you.
For me, the most memorable moments weren’t planned: sitting under a fig tree in Lourmarin, a picnic among the lavender in Sault, the quiet chapel at Saint-Paul de Mausole where Van Gogh once looked out. They weren’t on any map. They found me when I stopped rushing and let the road lead.
Would I go back? In a heartbeat. Next time I’d stay even longer, drive even slower, see fewer places and feel more. Because Provence isn’t a destination. It’s a rhythm, and once you’ve heard it, part of you never quite leaves.
So where will you start? Or better yet… where will you pause?
More France and South of France Guides
- Where to stay in Provence: the best bases and split stays
- How to design a 7-day self-drive escape along the Côte d’Azur
- Marseille city travel guide
- Nice city travel guide
- Outdoor activities in the South of France
- France country highlights
- All my France travel posts
Love seasonal blooms? See Kamakura’s hydrangea trails and Jeju’s springtime canola fields.


I love it when you say that a trip to Provence teaches you to slow down and be present. And look at that place, omg! It’s sooo beautiful. I can imagine the experience of walking those streets, seeing the medieval structures and bridges, basking in the warmth of the sun while breathing in the air by the waters.
P.S. I’m envious you get to see what Van Gogh used to look at and actually sit there and take it in.
Ahh, May, you totally get it—that feeling of just being there, soaking it all in. Sitting where Van Gogh once did was surreal, honestly. If you ever go, I’d love to know which part of Provence you’d explore first—art, nature, or maybe a bit of both?
What a beautifully curated itinerary. You’ve captured the essence of Provence so well, from the charming hilltop villages to the lavender fields and historic landmarks, it’s truly a dream trip. I especially love the inclusion of both cultural highlights like Palais des Papes and natural wonders like the Verdon Gorge. The balance between scenic drives, wine tastings, and leisurely strolls makes this itinerary both relaxing and enriching. Thanks for the inspiration.
Thanks so much, Jerry—your comment really made my day! I’m glad the balance came through; that was something I really aimed for. Have you been to Provence yourself, or is it on your future travel list? Would love to hear what kind of spots you’d add to your own version of the itinerary!
I love the idea of a trip centered around following those beautiful blooms! This is amazing.
Thanks, Claudia! The blooms really do set the tone for the whole trip—especially in places like Valensole. Have you ever planned a trip around a seasonal event or natural phenomenon before? Would love to hear!
This would be a truly magical experience. If I’m ever able to go, this post will be how I plan my trip!
Thanks so much, Beth! That means a lot. I hope you do get to experience it someday—it really is as dreamy as it looks. Any particular part of Provence you’d be most excited to see first?
Sometimes all you really need to recharge is to get away from literally EVERYTHING. It’s exactly what I did at the beginning of July, and it was amazing. I didn’t even realize how much I needed it.
That sounds like such a needed reset, Stacie! Provence had that same effect on me—something about the lavender fields and quiet villages just clears your head. Where did you escape to? Maybe we’ve both found our go-to recharge spots!