How to Design a 7-Day Self-Drive Escape Along the Côte d’Azur

On a recent trip through Provence and the South of France, I swapped lavender for sea blue and drove the Côte d’Azur from Nice to the Verdon Gorge and on to Saint-Tropez. This is the 7-day plan I would hand a friend. It uses Nice as the base, keeps the driving sensible, and includes a version for travellers who would rather not drive at all.

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There’s a particular light on the Côte d’Azur. It dances differently on the water, softens the corners of centuries-old stone, and tints every lazy afternoon with a golden haze. No wonder Matisse, Chagall and Picasso were drawn to this sliver of southern France, where the Alps tumble into the Mediterranean and every seaside town tells its own story.

This 7-day journey is my answer to the Riviera’s rhythm: cliff-hugging roads, pastel harbours and hilltop villages with views worth lingering over. Nice, Èze, Menton, Saint-Paul de Vence, Antibes and Saint-Tropez sit close together on the map but feel worlds apart. While my Provence road trip wandered through lavender fields and Roman ruins, this route shifts the palette to azure blues, whitewashed terraces and sun-drenched colour. Think chilled rosé by the bay in Villefranche, a sketchbook in Antibes, or the glamour of Cannes without the red-carpet pressure.

Nice is the home base: easy to loop out from and come back to. If you prefer to keep moving, I’ve also included a linear town-hopping version and a car-free plan.

Côte d’Azur: Where the Sun Meets Style

The name “Côte d’Azur” was coined in the 19th century by the writer Stéphen Liégeard. The coast stretches from Menton on the Italian border to around Saint-Tropez and has drawn artists, aristocrats and jet-setters ever since. Beyond the yachts and Michelin stars there is real texture: Roman ruins, artisan markets, perfumeries, village squares and gardens that bloom almost all year.

To make the driving simple, I split the coast into three areas: the Eastern Riviera, the Central Riviera, and the Western Riviera with inland detours.

Eastern Riviera: Nice to Menton

This is where the Alps meet the sea. Nice is bustling yet walkable, with pebble beaches, Belle Époque façades and the Cours Saleya market.

Villefranche-sur-Mer is a sorbet-coloured harbour just along the coast, and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is a quiet peninsula of coastal paths and the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild.

Èze is perched high above the sea, Monaco brings vertical glamour and Formula 1 flair, and Menton is mellow, Baroque and famous for its lemons.

Central Riviera: Antibes, Cannes and the Hill Villages

Antibes has a walled old town, a morning market and the Picasso Museum in a seaside château. Cannes is more than red carpets, with the palm-lined La Croisette and summer fireworks over the bay. Inland, Grasse is the historic capital of perfume, and Saint-Paul de Vence is a medieval village of galleries and ramparts where Marc Chagall is buried.

Western Riviera and Inland Detours

Here the glamour thins into laid-back opulence and wild scenery. Saint-Tropez, once a fishing village, became the Riviera’s poster child after Brigitte Bardot arrived, and it is best reached by sea. Inland, the Verdon Gorge (in Provence proper) offers turquoise water and cliff-top roads, and Montauroux is a quiet hill village for a slow lunch.

Your 7-Day French Riviera Itinerary at a Glance

Day	Base	Stops	Drive / transport	Overnight
1	Nice	Promenade des Anglais, Old Nice, Castle Hill	On foot (tram from the airport)	Nice
2	Nice	Villefranche-sur-Mer, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, Villa Ephrussi	TER train and local bus or coastal walk	Nice
3	Nice	Èze, Monaco-Ville, Monte Carlo, Menton	Pick up the car; Moyenne and Basse Corniche	Nice (or Menton)
4	Nice	Antibes old town, Musée Picasso, Port Vauban, Cap d’Antibes	Short drive west (or train)	Nice (or Antibes)
5	Nice	Cannes and La Croisette, Saint-Paul de Vence	Drive, with an inland loop	Nice
6	Nice or Moustiers	Castellane, Route des Crêtes, Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, Lac de Sainte-Croix	Long driving day inland	Nice, or near the Verdon
7	Nice	Saint-Tropez Old Port, Citadel, Pampelonne	Seasonal boat from Nice or Cannes (or drive)	Nice (or Saint-Tropez)

Planning Your French Riviera Road Trip

Why go in summer? From late May to early September the Mediterranean sparkles at full volume: bougainvillea in bloom, outdoor cafés humming at golden hour, evening markets and jazz under the stars. Yes, it’s popular, but there’s a reason. May, June and September give you the same light with fewer crowds.

Pre-Planning Your French Riviera Road Trip

Best time to go: late May to early September for warm water and festivals. May and early June are calmer; July and August are buzzier.

When to pick up the car: on the morning of Day 3. Nice is walkable, the centre is not car-friendly, and Day 2 is easiest by train. Return it after Day 6 if you take the boat to Saint-Tropez.

Where to base yourself: Nice is central, with train and road links in both directions. Antibes is a quieter, more artistic alternative. Both work beautifully.

Day 1: Arrival in Nice – Where France Meets Italy by the Sea

Nice doesn’t quite feel like the rest of France, and that’s its charm. Pastel façades, markets and palm-lined streets give it an Italian soul. The County of Nice belonged to the House of Savoy for centuries before it became French in 1860, and you still taste it in socca and pan bagnat.

There’s no rush today. Take a late-afternoon stroll along the Promenade des Anglais, with its cyclists, street performers and sea views. At golden hour, climb Castle Hill (Colline du Château). There’s no castle left, but the view over the ochre rooftops and the curve of the Baie des Anges is the postcard you’ll remember.

If you have extra time, my 72-hour Nice guide covers the markets, beaches and the Marc Chagall National Museum. For now, breathe in the salt air, order your first rosé and let the Riviera set the pace.

Day 2: Villefranche-sur-Mer and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat – Colour and Coastline

Leave the car for tomorrow. A short TER train ride east from Nice drops you right above the bay of Villefranche-sur-Mer: ochre and coral façades, fishing boats and water so clear it looks painted.

Spend the morning in the old town. Don’t miss Rue Obscure, a medieval covered street running beneath the houses, and browse the market if your visit falls on market day.

Then walk the coastal path or take a local bus to Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, a pocket of understated luxury. Head to Paloma Beach, framed by pines and cliffs, for a swim and a lazy lunch.

If time allows, step into the rose-pink fantasy of the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild, with its art collection and themed gardens above the sea. Return to Nice by train or bus in time for apéro, salt still in your hair.

Day 3: Èze, Monaco and Menton – Scents, Cliffs and Lemon Light

Pick up the car and head east along the Moyenne Corniche. All three stops lie east of Nice, so this is one easy loop.

Early morning: Èze. The village feels suspended between sky and sea, with cobbled alleys, ivy-covered walls and the cactus-filled Jardin d’Èze at the top. Go early, before the tour coaches arrive. Fit hikers can climb up from Èze-sur-Mer on the steep Nietzsche Path, named after the philosopher who walked it.

I joined a local tour that ended at Fragonard’s factory in Èze, a short walk below the village, where a guide explained how scents are extracted, blended and aged. More on perfume below.

Late morning: Monaco. Drive on to Monaco-Ville (Le Rocher) and park in one of the public car parks. Aim to reach the Prince’s Palace square before midday for the Changing of the Guard. Monaco feels like a city built vertically, its terraces and towers stacked like Hong Kong’s Mid-Levels (I wrote about that in my free viewpoints in Hong Kong post). Afterwards, walk to the Oceanographic Museum, stroll Port Hercule, and take a look at Casino Square and the Belle Époque Monte Carlo Casino.

Late afternoon: Menton. Menton is only a short drive further east and is the perfect end to the day. It sits near the Italian border, enjoys a mild, almost subtropical climate, and is known as the “City of Lemons”. Climb the old town’s apricot and coral lanes to the Basilique Saint-Michel for views over the bay, or swim at Plage des Sablettes. Watching golden light hit Menton’s rooftops while locals sipped their coffee was one of my favourite moments of the whole trip. For a special dinner, Mirazur is one of the world’s most celebrated restaurants (book well ahead).

Drive back to Nice along the coast road, or stay overnight in Menton or Monaco.

Perfume Making in Èze and Grasse

Fragonard, founded in Grasse, runs a factory in Èze with free guided visits showing how natural oils are extracted, blended and aged. Some perfumeries also offer workshops where you create your own scent, which makes a lovely Riviera keepsake.

The real heart of French perfume is Grasse, about an hour west of Èze. Its mild climate made it ideal for growing perfume flowers such as jasmine, rose and tuberose, and its perfume know-how is on UNESCO’s list of intangible heritage. Fragonard, Molinard and Galimard all have historic houses there. (L’Occitane en Provence, often linked with Grasse, was actually founded in Manosque, in Alpes-de-Haute-Provence.) For more Provence ideas, see my Provence 7-day itinerary.

Day 4: Antibes and Cap d’Antibes – Picasso, Ramparts and Sunset on the Cape

Today heads west instead. Antibes pulses with creativity and salt air. Once a fortified outpost, it drew Pablo Picasso, who worked in the Château Grimaldi in 1946. The château is now the Musée Picasso, and the works he made there are full of sea and sun.

Walk the ramparts for views over Port Vauban, often described as one of the largest marinas in the Mediterranean, where some of the world’s biggest superyachts moor. At the Bastion Saint-Jaume, Jaume Plensa’s Nomade, a giant seated figure made of letters, gazes out to sea.

End the day on Cap d’Antibes, walking the coastal path at golden hour. The sea sparkles, the sky softens, and the Côte d’Azur sings its timeless lullaby.

Antibes Art Trail and Foodie Finds

Begin near the Musée Picasso, then wander through the old town to Place Nationale, looking out for murals and creative shopfronts along the way, and finish at Nomade for the classic photo.

For food lovers, the covered Marché Provençal on Cours Masséna is a must in the morning, brimming with cheese, olives, spices and tapenade. For a special meal, Le Figuier de Saint-Esprit is Michelin-starred. Sketch by the sea or sip rosé on a terrace: Antibes has a creative buzz that is pure Riviera.

Day 5: Cannes and Saint-Paul de Vence – Film Glamour and Artistic Soul

Start with a stroll along La Croisette, lined with boutiques, grand hotels and palms. I couldn’t resist the red-carpet steps of the Palais des Festivals, which you can usually photograph outside festival time.

The Cannes Film Festival, first held in 1946 and now staged each May, put this small fishing town on the world map. Beyond the spotlight there are sandy beaches (Plage du Midi is less touristy), the old Le Suquet quarter and plenty of cafés for people-watching. In summer, the Festival d’Art Pyrotechnique lights up the bay on selected nights, so check the official programme.

In the afternoon, head inland to Saint-Paul de Vence, one of the oldest medieval villages on the Côte d’Azur, in the hills behind Nice. Cobbled lanes, stone arches and galleries make it feel like a living canvas.

Its soul is in the small cemetery, where Marc Chagall rests. He spent his last years here, surrounded by the light that coloured his dreamlike work. Art lovers can add the Fondation Maeght just outside the village.

End with a sunset drink on a terrace, among the echoes of painters, poets and filmmakers.

Day 6: Verdon Gorge Day Trip – Lavender Roads and Limestone Majesty

After days on the coast, the Verdon Gorge brings cliffs, winding roads and cool turquoise water. It’s a long day with several hours of driving, so start early, or stay a night near Moustiers (see where to stay).

Stop for coffee in Castellane, beneath the rock crowned by the chapel of Notre-Dame du Roc. It’s the gateway to the gorge.

Then follow the Route des Crêtes from La Palud-sur-Verdon for jaw-dropping viewpoints. Often called the “Grand Canyon of Europe”, the gorge is up to about 700 metres deep. Hawks circle above, and kayaks float below like colourful dots.

Continue to Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, tucked into a cliffside ravine and famous for its faïence and the golden star hanging on a chain between two cliffs above the village. Below, the man-made Lac de Sainte-Croix glows jade and turquoise. Rent a kayak or pedal boat at the Pont du Galetas and paddle into the mouth of the gorge itself, with cliffs rising on either side.

In early summer, lavender blooms on the Valensole Plateau and around Roumoules. Peak bloom varies from year to year, so check local bloom reports before you go.

Day 7: Saint-Tropez by Boat – A Glamorous Finale on the Water

No Côte d’Azur journey feels complete without Saint-Tropez. Once a humble fishing village, it found fame in the 1950s through Brigitte Bardot and the French New Wave, and it still mixes rustic charm with Riviera glitz.

Driving in is possible, but the single access road is notorious for summer traffic. A better option is to arrive by boat: seasonal ferries run from Nice and Cannes, and shuttles cross from Sainte-Maxime. Check operators’ official websites for the current season’s timetable. For a splashier entrance, charter a skippered boat from Antibes, Cannes or Nice.

Once ashore, explore the Old Port, wander up to the Citadel for panoramic views, and spend the afternoon at a beach club on Pampelonne Beach (Club 55 is the legend). Head back in the evening or stay the night for a glamorous finale.

Practical Tips: Boat and Yacht Rental on the French Riviera

• Licence needed? Not if you hire a boat with a skipper. To drive a motorboat yourself you need a recognised licence.
• How to book: platforms such as Click&Boat and SamBoat, or directly at local marinas.
• What’s included: fuel is often extra, so ask before you book.
• Best for: Saint-Tropez day trips, coastal cruising and sunset sails.

Pro tip: book early for June to August, ask about paddleboards and snacks, and split the cost with a group. It is surprisingly affordable that way.

How to Do It Without a Car (or as a Linear Town-Hop)

The coast is one of the easiest parts of France to explore by train. The TER line runs along the shore through Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Villefranche, Monaco and Menton, and regional buses fill the gaps.

• Day 1–2: unchanged. Walk Nice, then take the train to Villefranche and walk or bus to Cap Ferrat.
• Day 3: bus up to Èze village, then continue to Monaco by bus and to Menton by train.
• Day 4–5: train to Antibes and Cannes. Reach Saint-Paul de Vence by regional bus from Nice.
• Day 6: without a car, the Verdon is best done on a guided day tour from Nice. Alternatively, spend the day in Grasse (by bus or train via Cannes).
• Day 7: seasonal ferry to Saint-Tropez from Nice or Cannes.

Prefer to keep moving? Try a linear route from east to west: Menton or Monaco (1 night) → Nice (3 nights) → Antibes (2 nights) → Saint-Tropez (1 night), then continue into Provence. With a car, add a night in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie between Antibes and Saint-Tropez, and remember that one-way rentals usually carry a drop-off fee.

Where to Stay on the Côte d’Azur

• Nice: best all-round base, with the most hotels and the best transport. Stay near the Old Town or the tram line, and pick a hotel with parking if you have the car.
• Antibes: smaller and calmer, and just as central for Cannes and Saint-Paul.
• Menton or Villefranche: slower seaside stays for the eastern Riviera.
• Moustiers-Sainte-Marie or Valensole: for a night by the Verdon. My where to stay in Provence guide compares these and the other Provence bases.

Road-Trip Practicalities: Tolls, Parking, Crit’Air and Fuel

• Renting at Nice airport: the rental desks are at the airport, which saves driving through the city centre. Book an automatic early if you need one, check the excess cover, and photograph the car at pickup.
• Tolls: the A8 motorway is tolled. Pay by card at the booths, and keep a card that works without a PIN as backup. The corniche roads are free and far more scenic.
• Low-emission zones (Crit’Air): Nice has a ZFE, but at the time of writing its restrictions apply only to heavy goods vehicles, buses and coaches, not cars. Marseille’s ZFE does restrict older cars. Rental cars are usually recent enough, but if you drive your own car into France, buy a Crit’Air sticker only from the official site, certificat-air.gouv.fr, and check the rules for each city.
• Parking: use underground car parks in Nice, Cannes, Antibes and Monaco. In hill villages like Èze and Saint-Paul, park at the edge and walk up. Never leave valuables visible.
• Driving in Monaco: there’s no border control or toll. Roads are steep and one-way, so head straight for a public car park. Expect closures in the weeks around the Grand Prix in spring.
• Fuel: supermarket stations are usually cheaper than motorway ones, and many unstaffed pumps take cards only. Fill up before Day 6, as stations are scarce around the Verdon.
• Timing: avoid summer weekends and rush hour on the coastal roads, and leave room for scenic stops.

Other Hidden Gems Worth Exploring

There’s so much more to the Riviera, and I already feel the pull to return. Have you been to any of these? Tell me your favourite in the comments!

Grasse: the perfume capital. Next time I want to join a hands-on perfume-making workshop and wander its historic centre.

Montauroux: a peaceful hilltop village inland from Cannes, surrounded by olive groves and vineyards.

A full day in Menton: my golden-hour visit on Day 3 was far too short. The lemon gardens, the Jean Cocteau Museum and the old town deserve a whole day.

Roumoules and the Valensole Plateau: lavender dreams. Timing a visit for full bloom would be magical.

Èze’s Nietzsche Path: a steep climb with a philosophical twist. Next time I’ll tackle it with better shoes and a full water bottle.

Côte d’Azur Travel Tips

• What to pack: beachwear and layers, linen shirts, a light windbreaker and comfortable walking shoes for the villages. Water shoes help on pebbly or rocky beaches. Bring a daypack, a refillable bottle, a microfibre towel, sunglasses and your prescription glasses for driving.
• Best beaches for swimming vs views: for easy swimming, try Plage de la Garoupe (Cap d’Antibes) or Plage des Sablettes (Menton). For scenery, head to Plage Mala (Cap d’Ail) or Plage de Passable (Cap Ferrat), coves framed by cliffs and pines.
• Avoiding crowds: try smaller coves like La Petite Afrique in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, or take the boat to the Lérins Islands off Cannes. If you have extra days, Porquerolles (further west, near Hyères) is car-free and serene.
• Smart transport: use TER trains and buses for short coastal hops, like Nice to Villefranche or Menton. It’s far less hassle than parking.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is 7 days enough for the French Riviera?

Yes. A week lets you cover Nice, Villefranche, Èze, Monaco, Menton, Antibes, Cannes and Saint-Paul de Vence, plus one inland day (the Verdon) and one day trip to Saint-Tropez, all from a single base.

Do you need a car on the Côte d’Azur?

No, not for the coast: trains link Cannes, Antibes, Nice, Monaco and Menton. A car makes hill villages, Cap d’Antibes and especially the Verdon Gorge much easier.

Is Nice or Antibes the better base?

Nice has more hotels, restaurants and transport links. Antibes is smaller, calmer and better placed for Cannes and the west. Both work for this itinerary.

When is the Changing of the Guard in Monaco?

It takes place daily in front of the Prince’s Palace on Le Rocher, shortly before noon. Arrive a little early for a good spot and check the palace’s official site for any changes.

How do you get to Saint-Tropez without a car?

Take a seasonal ferry from Nice or Cannes, or a shuttle boat from Sainte-Maxime. Outside the season, take the train to Saint-Raphaël and then a bus.

Can you do the Verdon Gorge as a day trip from Nice?

Yes, but it’s a long day with several hours of driving. Start early, or stay a night in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie or around Lac de Sainte-Croix.

Do I need a Crit’Air sticker to drive in Nice?

At the time of writing, Nice’s low-emission zone applies only to heavy goods vehicles, buses and coaches, not to cars. Rules can change, and other cities such as Marseille do restrict older cars, so check the official Crit’Air site before you go.

When is the best time for a Côte d’Azur road trip?

Late May to June and September offer warm seas, long days and fewer crowds. July and August are the liveliest and the busiest on the roads.

Final Thoughts

This journey was more than a scenic getaway. It was sun-drenched coastline, fragrant gardens, vibrant art and the joy of finding the story behind each village. Every stop surprised me in its own way: the red-carpet steps in Cannes, the narrow alleys of Èze, the turquoise Verdon, and that golden light over Menton.

Would I return? In a heartbeat. There are scents to bottle in Grasse, sunsets to chase in Montauroux and lavender fields to wander near Roumoules. The Riviera leaves you longing, not just for places, but for the feeling they give you.

More France and Riviera Guides

• France highlights: why France is such a great place to holiday
• Ultimate 72-hour guide to Nice
• 7-day self-drive Provence itinerary
• Where to stay in Provence
• Marseille city guide: port history, islands and flavour
• Outdoor activities in the South of France
• Getting connected with an eSIM in France
• Versailles day trip from Paris · Paris bike tour