Planning the Best Hydrangea Day Trip to Kamakura

When it comes to the mesmerizing sight of hydrangeas in Japan, Kamakura is a must-visit destination that comes alive with color between June and early July. As the hydrangeas bloom in full glory, Kamakura, known for its serene temples and historical landmarks, transforms into a picturesque wonderland. I was fortunate enough to explore this enchanting city during hydrangea season with nine of my friends who joined me in Tokyo for a food-filled adventure. (If you’re ever in Tokyo, check out my ultimate Tokyo food guide for the inside scoop on the best eats across the city!)

Before they arrived, I seized the opportunity for a solo excursion to Kamakura – a charming city just an hour south of Tokyo. Famous for the awe-inspiring Great Buddha at Kōtoku-in, Kamakura’s hydrangea season adds another layer of allure. But be warned: when the hydrangeas are in full bloom, the crowds can be overwhelming. My visit on a Tuesday was no exception – the platform at JR Kita-Kamakura Station was packed, and I nearly couldn’t get off the train!

But don’t let the crowds scare you away. The vibrant bursts of color from the hydrangeas, known as ajisai (あじさい), are absolutely worth the trip.

In this guide, I’ll take you through my recommended route for a relaxed, slow-paced stroll to enjoy these beautiful blooms – crowds and all. Plus, I’ll share a bit about the fascinating history of Kamakura along the way. Ready to embark on a hydrangea-hunting adventure? Let’s go!
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The Historical Significance of Kamakura

Kamakura played a crucial role in Japanese history as the center of power during the Kamakura Period (1185–1333). This era marked the transition from imperial rule under the Emperor (天皇, Tennō) to a military-led government known as the shogunate (幕府, Bakufu). With the establishment of the Kamakura Shogunate by Minamoto no Yoritomo, samurai became the ruling class, shifting Japan’s political landscape permanently. This period saw the rise of bushidō, the samurai code of honor, which emphasized loyalty, duty, and martial skill.

During this time, Japan repelled two Mongol invasions (1274 and 1281) thanks to fortifications and the legendary “kamikaze” (divine winds) that destroyed enemy fleets. Zen Buddhism also flourished, influencing samurai philosophy and aesthetics, from architecture to tea ceremonies.

Despite the shogunate’s fall in 1333, Kamakura remains a treasure trove of samurai heritage.

Top Attractions in Kamakura

Kamakura is home to remarkable historic sites, including:

• • Kōtoku-in’s Great Buddha – A 13.35-meter bronze Buddha, a symbol of strength and serenity.
  • Tsurugaoka Hachimangū Shrine – Founded by Minamoto no Yoritomo, a center of samurai culture.
  • Hasedera Temple – Known for its stunning hydrangea gardens and Kannon statue.
  • Engaku-ji Temple – A key Zen temple built to honor samurai who perished in battle.

From samurai battles to spiritual enlightenment, Kamakura’s legacy continues to captivate visitors with its rich history and timeless beauty.

The Special Connection Between Kamakura and Hydrangeas

What is “Ajisai” (あじさい) – Hydrangea?

Hydrangeas, or “ajisai” (あじさい) in Japanese, are beloved summer flowers known for their lush, globe-like blooms. Their colors range from vibrant blues and purples to pinks and whites, shifting in response to soil acidity. Common types in Japan include the gaku-ajisai (lacecap hydrangea) and hon-ajisai (bigleaf hydrangea), often seen in temple gardens and along nature trails.

Kamakura is regarded as one of the best and earliest places in Japan to view hydrangeas, making it a prime destination for flower enthusiasts. This strong connection stems from a blend of cultural, geographical, and climatic factors.

Why Are There So Many Hydrangeas in Kamakura?

Cultural Significance – A Tribute to the Fallen

Kamakura’s deep samurai history is tied to countless battles and the loss of young warriors. Many temples and shrines in the area planted hydrangeas as a way to mourn these fallen souls. In Japan, hydrangeas symbolize heartfelt emotion, gratitude, and even apology, making them a fitting tribute to those who perished in battle.

The blooming flowers create a serene and reflective atmosphere, encouraging visitors to honor the past while appreciating the fleeting beauty of nature.

Geography – A Natural Protector Against Erosion

Surrounded by hills and mountains, Kamakura’s landscape is prone to soil erosion, especially during Japan’s rainy season. The dense root systems of hydrangeas help stabilize the soil and prevent landslides, making them a natural choice for hillside plantations. Many temples and hiking trails feature hydrangea-lined paths, not only enhancing their beauty but also serving a crucial ecological function.

Climate – Ideal Growing Conditions

Kamakura faces Sagami Bay (相模湾), where the salty sea breeze and mild winters create optimal conditions for hydrangea growth. The humidity and ample rainfall during Japan’s early summer monsoon season further contribute to their lush appearance. This unique coastal climate ensures that Kamakura’s hydrangeas bloom in vibrant hues, drawing thousands of visitors each year.
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Kamakura – The City of Hydrangeas

By combining history, culture, geography, and climate, Kamakura has rightfully earned its reputation as Japan’s “City of Hydrangeas.” Whether for spiritual reflection, scenic beauty, or botanical appreciation, a visit to Kamakura in hydrangea season is a mesmerizing experience that blends nature with centuries of samurai heritage.

Visiting Tips for First-Timers

Best Time to Visit for Hydrangea Viewing

The hydrangea season in Kamakura typically peaks from mid-June to early July, coinciding with Japan’s rainy season. During this time, the temples and gardens burst into vibrant shades of blue, pink, and purple, making it the best period for hydrangea viewing. However, this is also the busiest season, so visiting early in the morning on weekdays can help avoid crowds.

Why Visit Kamakura?

Kamakura offers a perfect blend of history, nature, and culture. Visitors can experience the grandeur of samurai-era temples, serene coastal landscapes, and seasonal floral beauty, all within a short trip from Tokyo. The combination of ancient traditions and picturesque scenery makes Kamakura a top destination for history buffs and nature lovers alike.

How to Get to Kamakura

Kamakura is easily accessible from Tokyo and other nearby cities. Several travel passes offer convenient and cost-effective ways to explore the area:

Enoden 1-Day Pass Ticket “Noriorikun”: This pass allows unlimited boarding and disembarking at any station on the entire Enoden line for one day. The price is 800 yen for adults and 400 yen for children.

Enoshima-Kamakura Freepass: This pass offers unlimited rides on all Enoden lines and designated sections of Odakyu lines, including a round-trip ticket from Shinjuku to Fujisawa. The price is 1,640 yen for adults and 430 yen for children.

Enoshima 1-Day Passport: This pass provides unlimited access to Enoshima attractions such as the Enoshima Escar, the Enoshima Sea Candle (Lighthouse Observation Tower), and the Enoshima Iwaya Caves. The price is 1,100 yen for adults and 500 yen for elementary school students.

For first-time visitors, a recommended route covers Kamakura’s classic highlights, including the Great Buddha at Kōtoku-in, Tsurugaoka Hachimangū Shrine, and Hasedera Temple. As some locations can become crowded, an early start is advised to maximize your visit. Whether for history, flowers, or scenic charm, Kamakura promises an unforgettable experience.
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Exploring Kamakura: A Suggested Route

Kamakura’s historic charm and vibrant hydrangea blooms make it a perfect destination for a scenic and culturally enriching walk. This suggested route takes you through iconic temples, hidden gems, and breathtaking hydrangea viewing spots, offering a blend of history, spirituality, and natural beauty.

Spot 1: Engaku-ji (円覚寺)

The journey begins at Kita-Kamakura JR Station, where the first stop is Engaku-ji, a prominent Zen temple founded in 1282 by Hōjō Tokimune to honor fallen samurai from the Mongol invasions. Nestled in the lush hills, Engaku-ji offers a peaceful retreat with its wooden gates, moss-covered gardens, and scenic vistas.

While Engaku-ji may not have the densest hydrangea displays compared to other temples, its serene setting allows visitors to appreciate the flowers in a calm, meditative atmosphere. The temple’s architecture, including the grand Sanmon gate and the elegant Shariden hall (a designated National Treasure), adds to its historical significance.

Visitors can partake in zazen meditation sessions, sip tea at a traditional teahouse, and stroll through the temple’s expansive grounds. The seasonal beauty of Engaku-ji—whether cherry blossoms in spring or golden foliage in autumn—makes it a must-visit site year-round.

Spot 2: Meigetsuin (明月院)

Nicknamed the “Ajisai Temple”, Meigetsuin is Kamakura’s most famous spot for hydrangea viewing. Founded in 1160, the temple boasts over 2,500 hydrangea plants of varying shades, predominantly in striking blue—earning the temple’s signature name, “Meigetsuin Blue”.

Before even entering the temple, visitors are greeted by hydrangeas lining the entrance pathway, creating a dreamlike scene. The most iconic photo spot is the stone staircase leading to the front gate, flanked by lush blooms on both sides. The flowers are especially vibrant after the rain, enhancing their rich colors.

Due to its immense popularity, Meigetsuin can get crowded, particularly during peak bloom in mid-June. Arriving early in the morning ensures a more peaceful experience and better opportunities for crowd-free photos. With its mesmerizing floral displays and deep historical roots, Meigetsuin remains an unmissable highlight of Kamakura’s hydrangea season.

Spot 3: Kuzuharaoka Shrine (葛原岡神社)

The Meigetsuin-Kuzuharaoka-Kōtoku-in hiking trail is one of the most scenic routes in Kamakura, covering historical and cultural attractions within a refreshing 3 km walk. Passing Jōchi-ji, I followed the signs and entered the forested hiking trail leading to Kuzuharaoka Shrine.

Unlike the bustling Meigetsuin, Kuzuharaoka Shrine offers a quieter, more serene experience. The peaceful ambiance, tucked away in the western wooded hills of Kamakura, allowed me to fully appreciate the beauty of the blooming hydrangeas without the overwhelming crowds.

Historically, Kuzuharaoka Shrine is associated with the fall of the Kamakura Shogunate. It is dedicated to Kuzuharaoka Benzaiten, a deity linked to good fortune, relationships, and academic success. The shrine also houses a stone monument marking the execution site of Hōjō Takatoki, the last regent of the Kamakura Shogunate, whose downfall marked the end of samurai rule in the region.

What makes this spot unique is its combination of history and nature. Visitors can admire the hydrangeas in a tranquil setting while also engaging in shrine traditions, such as tying omikuji (fortune-telling paper strips) and touching the “Ishiwari Jizo” stone for good luck. The short hike, combined with the serene floral scenery, made this a hidden gem and an unexpected favorite on my journey through Kamakura.

Zeniarai Benzaiten Shrine (銭洗弁財天宇賀福神社)

After a short rest, I continued my walk to another shrine on the route, it should not be difficult to find as there will be road signs along the trail.

This is not exactly a hydrangea viewing spot, but it’s an interesting pitstop on your way to the next one. There is a cave and legend has it, wash your money with the shrine’s spring and they will double.

I didn’t go wild and bring all my money there for a good washing, the shrine has bamboo baskets prepared in case you want to experience the divine power of the spring water in the shrine.

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Spot 4: Itsuki Garden Cafe terrace樹ガーデン

Itsuki, which means “tree” in Japanese, is my recommendation for lunch. It was a sweet detour as I looked for the cafe in the woods. The cafe has two entrances – while the main entrance is located on the roadside, I entered the cafe at the back of the hill; and I recommend entering the cafe that way because the view of the entire cafe was breathtaking from the top.

The cafe is a real estate property of the Itsuki Garden and was initially acquired by the late founders of Hinoki Corporation; finally, it turned into a tourist attraction. While the entire site looks buried deep in the woods, the structure has a nice contrast with red bricks and umbrellas popping out from the lushes.

All tables are outdoors, a perfect setting to enjoy nature and some food. The cafe offers simple set lunches, snacks, and sandwiches, and the most popular dish would be their summer fruit pancakes.

Spot 5: Kōtoku-in 鎌倉大仏殿高徳院

After a satisfying lunch, I made my way to Kōtoku-in, home to the iconic Great Buddha of Kamakura, a monumental bronze statue of Amida Buddha (Amitābha). Standing at approximately 13.35 meters (43.8 feet) tall and weighing around 121 tons, it is the second-largest bronze Buddha statue in Japan, surpassed only by the one in Nara’s Tōdai-ji.

Historical Background

The origins of the Great Buddha date back to 1252 during the Kamakura period (1185–1333). Initially, a wooden statue was constructed on this site, but it suffered damage from a storm in 1248. To replace it, a bronze statue was commissioned, with funds raised by Lady Inada no Tsubone and the Buddhist priest Jōkō of Tōtōmi.

The bronze statue was originally housed within a grand wooden temple hall, similar to the Great Buddha of Nara. However, the structure was repeatedly destroyed by natural disasters, including typhoons and a tsunami in the 14th and 15th centuries. Since the late 15th century, the Great Buddha has stood in the open air, enduring the elements and symbolizing resilience.

Architectural Marvel

One of the unique features of the Great Buddha is that visitors can enter the hollow interior of the statue. Inside, you can observe the intricate construction techniques used by artisans over 800 years ago, gaining insight into the advanced metallurgical skills of the Kamakura period.

Notably, traces of gold leaf near the statue’s ears indicate that it was once gilded, adding to its grandeur.

Cultural Significance

Kōtoku-in is a temple of the Jōdo-shū (Pure Land) sect of Buddhism, founded by the priest Hōnen (1133–1212). This sect emphasizes devotion to Amida Buddha, believing in the liberation of all beings, regardless of their status or deeds. The Great Buddha serves as a profound symbol of this inclusive philosophy, attracting pilgrims and visitors seeking spiritual solace.

Hydrangea Garden

While the Great Buddha is the main attraction, the temple grounds also feature a charming garden with various types of hydrangeas. Although not as densely clustered as in some other Kamakura sites, the diverse species present offer a delightful experience, especially during the rainy season when the flowers are in full bloom.

Visiting Tips

To fully appreciate the serenity and historical depth of Kōtoku-in, consider visiting during weekdays or early in the morning to avoid crowds. The temple grounds are open to visitors, and a small admission fee is required. Don’t miss the opportunity to explore the interior of the Great Buddha and reflect on the centuries of history it embodies.

Kōtoku-in stands as a testament to Japan’s rich cultural heritage, offering a unique blend of historical significance, architectural ingenuity, and natural beauty. It’s a must-visit spot for anyone seeking to delve deeper into the spiritual and artistic traditions of Kamakura.

Spot 6: Hasedera 長谷寺

As my journey through Kamakura approached its end, I made my way to Hasedera, another must-visit site renowned for its hydrangeas and deep cultural significance. The path connecting Kōtoku-in and Hasedera is a bustling tourist street lined with charming cafés, souvenir shops, and local eateries. Before reaching the temple, I took the opportunity to indulge in some delicious Warabi Mochi and browse the artisanal goods unique to Kamakura.

Hasedera, often called “The Flower Temple”, lives up to its name with vibrant blooms throughout the year. Established over 1,200 years ago, it is home to a remarkable 9.8-meter-tall wooden statue of Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy—one of the tallest wooden statues of its kind in Japan. The temple’s Hydrangea Path is a highlight of any visit, offering a breathtaking walk among over 2,500 hydrangea plants, each contributing to a sea of colors cascading down the hillside.

For those seeking a panoramic view, the temple’s observation gazebo provides an unparalleled vista of Kamakura city, the coastline, and Sagami Bay—a perfect spot for reflection and appreciation of Kamakura’s beauty. However, during peak hydrangea season, the Hydrangea Path requires a time-ticket system due to high demand. Arriving early ensures you don’t miss this spectacular experience!

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A Perfect Ending at Magokoro Café

Before concluding my trip, I stopped at Magokoro Café, a serene seaside retreat near Hase Station.

The café, adorned with organic linen-inspired décor, offers an inviting atmosphere with a menu focusing on fresh, locally sourced vegetable and seafood dishes.

Sitting by the large window, sipping on coffee while gazing at the endless ocean waves, I couldn’t have asked for a better way to end my Kamakura excursion.