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As you may know, Japan is comprised of four main islands – Honshu, Kyushu, Hokkaido, and Shikoku. Only Shikoku is not connected to Shinkansen (the new trunk line high-rapid railway) network, it is kind of left out in most travel planning. However, the disconnection could be a good thing because the island preserves so many hidden treasures for those who love to explore the country without the waves of crowds. In fact, many locations in Shikoku are listed in the Japanese national “hidden treasures”: Iya Onsen, Shimantogawa, Shōdoshima, and Besshi Copper Mine, just to name a few.
So, I was visiting Hiroshima and I put Matsuyama and the Dōgo Onsen (Hotspring) on my itinerary in the end. If you are looking for something new, I had a great time in these places and I am going to show you what it’s like during the cherry blossom in spring.
Something about… Matsuyama
Matsuyama is the capital of the Ehime prefecture and the largest city in Shikoku. Ehime prefecture has a population of 1.3 million, and it ranks 26 in terms of size out of the 47 prefectures in the country.
The city was founded in 1889 and it was developed as a typical Japanese castle town. Known for its hot springs (onsen) in the city, it’s one of the oldest in Japan; The Dōgo Onsen Honkan is a Meji period wooden public bathhouse dating back to the year 1894. Apart from the historic onsen, the Matsuyama Castle is also one of the twelve castles in Japan that are considered “original” (i.e. it is not rebuilt after being destroyed or damaged during the wars). Besides, eight of the eighty-eight temples in the Shikoku Pilgrimage are located in Matsuyama.
So you see, the city has retained so many historic flavors from different eras throughout the history of Japan, the historic elements are reflected by the Buddhist temples, old buildings, antique tramway, shops, and traditions – it is one of the best places to truly dive into the historic nostalgia of this fascinating country.
Two-day itinerary in the city of Matsuyama:
(Day 1) …>>> Okayama > JR Railway > Matsuyama: Botchan Ressha, Matsuyama Castle, Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum and Bansuiso > Check in to a hot spring resort in Dōgo Onsen
(Day2) Explore Dōgo Onsen and the area > Ishite-Ji > Ferry > Hiroshima >>>
and in fact, check out the other perfect place to experience the cherry blossom for a day trip from Hiroshima to Iwakuni and Miyajima!
In a nutshell, I took off from Okayama and spent 2 days in Matsuyama. On day 1 we went to the city center – Matsuyama Castle Town (for the cherry blossom) and the main shopping streets; on Day 2, I visited the Dōgo-onsen shopping street, Ishite Temple, and Dōgo park for more cherry blossom excitement. So here we go! Day 1 in Matsuyama.
Going to Matsuyama
Matsuyama is located at the corner of Northeast Shikoku and is charmingly surrounded by the Seto Inland Sea. In fact, it’s a little far from the other two main cities in the country (both three hours away from Takamatsu or Okayama). But well, I thought my plan was perfect to hit one bird with two stones – Okayama > 3 hours train to Matsuyama > 2.5 hours ferry to Hiroshima, and then I met the most amazing cherry blossom I have ever seen. No complaints.
Both rapid bus and JR trains are available @ the Okayama station. The costs were roughly the same, the time required was roughly the same, and the level of comfortableness was also the same – basically, it’s up to your personal choice. If I really have to point out each method’s problem, I didn’t have to change vehicles taking buses or enjoy higher flexibility with my traveling schedule by taking the train: Express bus Okayama – Matsuyama.
The “Botchan Ressha”
The replica steam locomotive ride – 坊っちゃん列車 – was based on a novel written by a great Japanese novelist Natsume Sōseki (夏目漱石) of the Meiji period, set in the city of Matsuyama.
The train ride is a perfect nostalgia for many Japanese locomotive fans because it was an authentic experience: from the old-fashioned tickets, and the chimes, to the old uniforms that the crew wore when there on duty on the train, explaining the history and character of the car and the city.
The train is quite small and it only runs about 6 times a day – check out the timetable on the website to learn more about their schedule and route. (The train runs from Togo onsen to Matsuyama station): Botchan Ressha website.
In fact, the city of Matsuyama is not big, and the train itself was interesting enough for me to let the vehicle just move around the city, me sitting by the window, and enjoying the city’s street view (P~E~R~F~E~C~T)
Matsuyama Castle Town
It’s definitely a super highlight of the city.
Do you know that there were thousands of castles in Japan since the Sengoku Period; Unfortunately, the majority of them were destroyed due to fire, disasters, or war over the years. Today, about a hundred castles were rebuilt and restored, and the Matsuyama Castle is one of the twelve “original” castles left standing (the most famous castle on the list is the Himeji Castle.)
Once we settled in the hot spring hotel we took the steam locomotive and headed straight to the Matsuyama Castle. The cherry, yes, yes, yes, was in full bloom and everyone was excited. The whole experience was fun – the mascot character, the historic sites, the chairlift and ropeway, and the cherry blossom were just perfect for different types of visitors.
A package ticket to the castle includes entrance to the castle, transportation up and down the castle, plus the famous udon lunch. There are three ways to go up to the Castle: 1. Chairlift, 2. Ropeway, and 3. On foot. For my chairlift experience uphill, I had a little peace and quiet to myself in my own car and it was fun. Note that it is also more popular and the queue is longer than the ropeway.
The Matsuyama Castle Udon is definitely one of the highlights and not to miss in the ticket’s package.
Matsuyama Castle
Website http://www.matsuyamajo.jp/
Open Hours: 9:00 am – 4:30 pm
Ticketing: 510 yen (suggest taking the ropeway)
How did I get there: In the city center with very clear signs at Okaido station by tram
About the mascot of Matsuyamajo: http://www.matsuyamajo.jp/event/yoshiakikun/#calendar
Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum
Matsuyama has a very rich literary heritage, and Ryōtarō Shiba is one of the most well-known novelists in the city. The Saka no Ue no Kumo (Clouds over the slope) is an important Japanese historical novel set in the Meiji period. The triangular museum with a concrete exterior itself was designed by the famous Japanese Architect, AndoTadao (安藤忠雄), and inside the premise, it has shown plots of the novel and pictures of Matsuyama from the Edo period.
Bansuiso
Bansuiso (Bansui Mansion) was up the slope on the same road as the Saka no Ue no Kumo Museum and the final stop of the city tour bus. It was an elegant French-style mansion building constructed in 1922 and now it was a multi-functional venue for private parties and functions. It has also areas opened to the public for visitors to appreciate the architecture and small exhibits.
After spending a day in Matsuyama Castle and the city center, we reached the better part of our stay in the city – The Dōgo Onsen.
Why Dōgo Onsen?
Why is Dōgo Onsen special? It is, to me, for these “tri-factors” –
First, it is one of the oldest hot springs in Japan with over 3000-year history. The hot spring has a record in literature back to 600 A.D.; and it’s been the most visited, historic, and popular hot spring area in Japan.
Second, it has a deep connection with one of the most influential Japanese writers, Natsume Sōseki (who in fact was printed on the 1000 yen-dollar notes). Born in Matsuyama, the Dōgo Onsen bathhouse was Natsume’s favorite retreat, and his famous autobiography – “Botchan” took place in Matsuyama, which explains why the figure of the characters in this book are displayed everywhere in the area.
Lastly, the Dōgo Onsen served as the backdrop of Natsume’s novel stories; the public bathhouse – also served as an inspiration for Miyazaki’s animated film Spirited Away. The entire hot spring area was the blueprint of the blockbuster, and the bathhouse is definitely the icon of a traditional, hot spring experience.
The Dōgo Onsen is situated in close proximity to the Matsuyama city area and it’s conveniently connected by tram. We found a very nice hot spring hotel in the district – Chaharu. It has a very nice hot spring on the top floor, which connects to the roof-top outdoor hot spring area. The hotel is basically the tallest building in the area, and I did enjoy very much the peace and quiet of soaking in the hot spring, looking over the city lights, and feeling the crispy spring Japanese breeze.
Check their website for more about the spa / outdoor hot spring and dinner packages.
Things to see and do in Dōgo Onsen
I highly recommend taking a break in the area and enjoying some peace and quiet in the hotel or resort. If you feeling active, and want to take a walk in the area, it has quite a lot to offer:
The tram station itself embraced charmingly the classic Meiji-time style and that’s the starting point of the steam automotive -“Botchan Ressha” 坊っちゃん列車, a train display that allows visitors to take photos next to the train.- Next to the station, there’s an outdoor public hot spring to soak your feet; the clock tower chimes hourly, and the “Botchan” characters come to live at the musical performance.
- Take photos with “Botchan” characters – the figures are displayed everywhere.
- Walk along the shopping street. I was pleasantly surprised by the snacks and desserts that they were selling. We were visiting in springtime and the Tangerine flavor “Omiyage” (Locale souvenirs) was overwhelming – cookies, cakes, juices, grilled fish, snacks, and sweets….. Personally, I love the citrus flavor and all of them tasted perfect. So fresh. We bought some fresh tangerines as a late-night snack after dinner as well.
Last but definitely not least, the Dōgo Onsen bathhouse was the highlight of the area. It is just a bathhouse, not a ryokan (hotel); for an old-school Japanese bathing experience, a small fee of 400 yen offers you access to the public bathing area on the ground floor, and an extra (800yen) for access to the lounge on the second floor and have a tea after-bath, for 1200 yen, you could access to another public bathing area on the second floor or 1500 yen – you get to visit the private resting lounge. (Also, there’s an entrance fee for viewing the Natsume’s resting lounge – the Botchan room on the second floor) (bring your own towel for the bath or you may need to rent one).- Nearby the hot spring area was the Dōgo Onsen park – which is also a popular cherry blossom viewing location. While maybe you are not there in spring, the park is just for you to unwind, relax, walk off the heat from the hot spring, and appreciate the beauty of some Japanese-style gardens.
We stayed in the nearby hot spring hotel, Chaharu, the entrance to the bathhouse was probably more about “looking” at the interior and having an experience of what it’s like. We did dress in our bathrobes and outdoor slippers and walked around the area :P.
Ishite-Ji
But this was not the end… the next day we explored a little bit further to the Ishite-Ji (Shrine), which is part of the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Have you heard of the Shikoku Pilgrimage? It is a multi-site pilgrimage of a total of eighty-eight temples (四国八十八箇所) once started by the Japanese Buddhist monk Kūkai. It was considered an important part of Japanese religious practice and until now, lots of believers (or pilgrims) would still dress in a distinctive sedge hat, white suit, and a wooden stick (金剛杖) to walk through the 1200 km trail that was once done a thousand years ago. The shrine was probably not much, but the story behind it was quite powerful… with strength and faith, human beings overcome everything.
Take a walk in Dōgo Onsen park during the day and take a lot of pictures during the cherry blossom season, it is one of the most popular locations in the city. Luckily, since we stayed in the onsen area, we arrive a little bit early than the crowd and we enjoyed the bloom – we could see many locals had laid down their mats under the trees, getting ready to celebrate the festivals.
Continuing our journey (which I recommend to others, too.), we left the hot spring area in the afternoon and headed to Hiroshima by ferry.
There’s a shuttle bus at the bus stop right next to the tram station, and it took us ~ 45 mins to get to the Matsuyama terminal. A speedboat took us from Matsuyama port to Hiroshima in less than 1.5 hours.
If you want more information:
Bus services from Dōgo Onsen to the port: website
Speed boat from Matsuyama port to Hiroshima Port: website
Found out what’s more to see and do once we arrive at Hiroshima! Check out A Blossoming Day in Sanyo.
Enjoy!
Matsuyama is such a gem. Would really love to visit it this spring
That’s great! Please come back and share with us your trip when you do!
I would love to explore here. We would be so entertained. I would love to see the blossoming in person one day.
I think you will have a great time there and the sceneries are amazing.
I’ve seen these flowers a lot in movies, I can’t imagine how beautiful they look on person. Japan is such an interesting and beautiful place to visit
Yes, it was really impressive and you will love the scenery
This is amazing place, I love Sakura and I would love to visit it one day. Japan been on my list for a while now. Thank you for sharing!
You are welcome! Glad that you like the article and I hope it will help you for your trip to Japan 🙂
I was suppose to go down south to Shikoku and Kyushu this winter, but COVID made a hamper on that plan. Bu8t that locomotive is super famous and many know it as Matsuyama’s locomotive.
Thanks for letting me know and it deserve such title, it’s a unique attraction in the city and I recommend it!